Akaile

You´re welcome Tricon.
Feel free to ask other topics too. Pictures are the best way to avoid language barriers so I believe this kind of technical topics can be usefull for all of us.

There are certain similarities between the Finns and Ozzies: There are long traditions in Finland to fix old 2cvs by hand and avoiding buying new parts. Our history and economy has put people to do so and this is a big difference compared to our middle-european friends. Decades they had access to cheap and not so rusted examples and therefore there was no need to fix things. Ozzies instead have been doing the same than Finns, fixing by their own hands and the reason is the distance to resellers and lack of second hand 2cvs and organ donors due the fact that the factory didn´t import these funny cars to Australia. Ofcourse you know this but I want that other followers will pay attention for this too.

Have a nice spring time with your 2cv!

Hi again,

according one Mehari-book which I found, your pot lenght from the top is the same as it should be from the inner length. The spring thickness might be different but the pot size should be the same on both, 2cv and Mehari.

Double rubber buffers won´t be needed with this “normal” length but of course it´s possible to do so too.

To avoid postal costs I would recommend you to order the small needed parts from europe and focus on the pots locally. Pot endings are the most difficult to make but the cylinder itself is easy. There is standard size Stainless (and “black”) close enough to the original dimensions or another option is to roll it from sheet metal.

I did´t explain the pot opening yet in english: When I said that opening the pot is done with grinder I didn´t pay attention to mention the way how it´s done? Not by cuting, but grinding little by little, that´s the keyword to save the pot lenght for re-welding. So you start grinding it on top of the old weld and simultaneously rotate the pot. Sometimes you hammer softly to the pot end. After a while small fraction will show up between the cylinder and the pot end. When the fraction is showable 360 degrees then you grab the tie rod and start shaking the whole pot up and down. The weight of the pot and springs will separate the ending and the pot. By doing like this the pot is possible to open and close several times before you run out of material.

I can still seek if I find older 2cv material from the same topic.

Cheers

Hello Daniel,
could you describe a bit what do you mean with “unserviceable”? Pots are rusted, springs are broken, suspension rods bent or broken threads?
If you check my pics from the topic here: https://www.2cv.fi/keskustelut/aihe/jousiponttojen-kunnostusta/

you get the idea what can be done. In the pics the materials are stainless but the idea is the same. Pots can be opened with grinder and all the parts can be changed. Even the original pots can be opened and closed several times before the dimensions change too much.

There are certain differences between 2cv yearmodels and suspension parts but basicly you can put totally new pots on old 2cv. It´s more about the looks than the actual fitting. If I remember correct, some old 2cvs have the pot buffers made of steel and the looks are like cinnamon bun? Spiral I mean :D. Also the tie rod ends changed around 1974 to the “nut”-model. Before that the all old ones had the smoother design.

Springs itself…hmmm… You have to be quite a princess to make a difference what age springs there are 😀

Hopefully this will help you forward.

BTW, how did you end up to Finnish forum?